Friday, April 12, 2013

Sink skirt tutorial!

So, here is my first (and probably only) attempt at a sewing tutorial.  I am doing this for two reasons:  the first is that tutorials are cool and the second is that I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for when I went to make mine, so maybe this will help someone else!

So, as a reminder, here is what the finished result looks like:


The supplies I used are as follows:  fabric, thread, steam-a-seam fusible web, and velcro (the kind where one side is sew on and the other side is sticky backed -- I got mine at Hobby Lobby) plus all your usual (but completely basic) sewing equipment.

Step 1:  Measure your sink height and width.  Mine was 35 3/4 inches tall (from the very top edge of the sink to the floor) and 46 1/4 inches wide.  My sink wasn't perfectly level, so the height I used is at the sinks highest point.

You will be cutting two rectangular pieces of fabric:  one for the header (on which the velcro will be attached) and one for the skirt.

For the header:
  • Figure the width by taking the width and adding 1" for seam allowances (for me, that was 47 1/4")
  • Figure the height figure how tall you want your header piece to be finished, then add 1/2" for seam allowance and double that number.  I want my finished piece to be 1 3/4" tall, so I cut mine to 4 1/2".
For the skirt:
  • For the height, figure out how long you want your total length to be.  I wanted mine to be as close to the floor as possible, without touching, so I made it 35 1/2.  Take your desired finished length, subtract your finished header height (1 3/4" in my case) and add 1" for seam allowance.  My cut height was 34 3/4".
  • For the width, I doubled the width and added a few inches.  This all depends on how full you want it.  I cut mine about 95" wide.  
Step 2:  Prepare the Header
  • Start by folding and thoroughly pressing your piece of header fabric in half running the long way, turning each end under 1/2" as well. 


  • Cut a piece of velcro to 1/4" less than the finished width of your header (47" for me).  Open the fabric and sew the velcro to the RIGHT side of the fabric 1/8" from the pressed FOLD mark.  I did it this way so that the stitching from the velcro won't show on the finished product.  I read a lot of tutorials where people hot glued the velcro down and I chose not to do this because I wanted something that would withstand repeated washing and also that will lay very flatly and cleanly against the sink.




  • I used sheets of steam-a-seam, as that is what I had on hand, however you can buy it in a "tape" form.  I wanted mine 1 1/2" wide.  I wanted it to reinforce all the fabric behind the velcro, but I also didn't want it to interfere with the seam where the skirt piece attached.  Put the sticky side of the steam-a-seam down on the WRONG side of the fabric behind where the velcro was (the velcro made it somewhat bumpy, so I wanted to be able to smooth out the steam-a-seam on that side before ironing).  You'll want to get the steam-a-seam as close to the ironed crease as possible.  Once the steam-a-seam is attached via the sticky side, fold the piece in half  and iron to set the steam-a-seam.





  • I ran a short seam up both of the shorts ends of the header piece, but that isn't entirely necessary.  I finished the two raw edges by using a fairly tight overcast stitch over both of them together.


  • Fold the header piece in half twice.  Mark the middle and quarter points (three evenly divided points) along the overcast edge with a pin.
  • Your header piece is done and it is time to move on....
Step 3:  Prepare the Skirt Piece (Sorry, but I forgot to take pictures of this part of the project, but it is the easy part, I promise!)
  • Tightly overcast all edges of the skirt piece. 
  • Fold the two short ends in 1/2", press and then hem.
  • Fold one of the long edges up 1/2", press and then hem.  This is the bottom edge that will meet the floor.
  • On the unhemmed (long) edge, run a set of loose (very long stitch length) stitches 1/4" from the edge.  I like to use a contrasting thread, as it makes it easier to keep track of these stitches (and easier to pick the right threads out later).  Leave a long tail of thread on each end.  Some people like to do two sets of threads...I find this works just as well for me.  
  • Fold the skirt piece in half twice, marking the middle and quarter points with a pin at the top unhemmed edge.
Step 4:  Gather and Attach the Skirt
  • Start pulling on one of the threads until the fabric starts gathering.  Continue pulling & gathering  until the piece is roughly the same width as the header piece.  Pin the two pieces together at the three pinned markings with the overcast edges lined up; the front side of the two pieces (the front side of the header is the side without the velcro) should be together.  
  • Continue to gather and adjust the skirt fabric until it is spaced evenly, pinning the gather in place frequently.
  • Stitch the two pieces together 1/2" from the overcast edges.  
  • If you are Type A, like me, go ahead and pick out all that contrasting thread.  
  • Voila, you are finished sewing!
I cleaned the edge of my sink thoroughly and then wiped it down with rubbing alcohol and allowed it to dry completely before attaching my velcro to it.  I did make a mistake and didn't pull it tight enough, so it is bubbling a little.  Sometime, when I have time, I am going to pull it off again and put new on.  Anyway....word of caution:  pull the velcro slightly taught while I applying it to the sink!

I was initially a little worried that the skirt would be too heavy, but it has been up a month and is just fine.  I am super glad that I got a relatively busy fabric, as that helps it not show dirt or water spots.

I hope someone finds this helpful...if not, at least I will not have to re-think the process when I am ready to switch out my fabric!

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